Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Sunday, April 29, 2012
Coming Home
Coming
Home
Waking, I turn my thoughts to my immediate travel. Why? Because for me, the fun of travel is in the rumination,
anticipation and preparation. Part
routine, part departure; together, elements of the experience.
The routine involves dozing off during
take-off and awaking at some later stage of the journey; facilitating the dream
like state that typically accompanies my travel. Yet, this trip is different: no advance planning or consideration. In fact my accommodation isn’t booked
and my flights were confirmed a few hours prior to departure. I haven’t savored over details that may
or may not lie ahead. Except for
my iPhone, I haven’t even brought a camera. Worse than leaving without completed plans, I’ve left my
daughter and wife with our home in utter disarray.
Why? Because my mother emailed that there
was an emergency. My father had died
suddenly. So now, somewhere over
the Pacific Ocean, I am contemplating what this journey holds, as I fly to
Florida to be with my mother.
It’s
not the destination but the journey... So then, I had better begin my planning
hadn’t I? Any preparation of the
journey involves understanding the destination and points you’re travelling through. My destination? Points en route? There had
been tension between my father and I for years; except for periodic Skype
sessions, I haven’t seen my parents since moving to Australia; my brother I
haven’t spoken to in years; and my sister, well, she won’t be attending the
service at all.
Although I have the unquestionable support
of my wife, I was on this journey alone; an adventure, which was going to be
long and arduous in so many ways.
“How long was the flight?” I
would be asked. Well, I saw
sunrise in Brisbane, then again in LA, sunset in Charlotte N.C. and then
arrived at my hotel shortly before midnight, all on 28 February. I realized that I was going to achieve a
rare experience of having 30 days in February. Looming as a storm on a distant horizon, Tampa waited with ample
challenges, distance covered by my flight perhaps the least.
First on the agenda was a 9am meeting with
my mother, brother and an uncle at the crematorium to discuss my father’s
service. I thought that I could
feel the earth spinning beneath my feet as I tried to reconcile emotions, being
in a different time zone, the travel and the responsibilities that required my
attention. Could I really feel the
effect of Coriolis pulling me differently in the northern hemisphere or merely
the weight of my own expectations?
Life
is a journey... And so here I was, on a journey to say my farewells, or was it new
greetings? Was I simply in a large
crowded terminal with other travelers?
Looking across the expanse of faces, some
of relatives and family that are familiar and others family friends whom I’ve
only just met. My itinerary only scheduled
me as far as the airport and there is no GPS to guide me now. So like Lewis and Clark crossing the
Mississipi River, I had to look within myself for direction and resolve.
With the challenges and experience met,
piling around me like unclaimed baggage upon airport carousals: interactions
with my brother; my grieving mother and uncles; those who turned to me to lead
the service or speak on their behalf.
Surveying the landscape of faces during the
memorial address that I realized that I am gaining new experiences. Travel doesn’t always include answers, merely
opportunities and fodder for contemplation. How can I cope with my surroundings? Where do I want to go? Who do I want to be? How can I affect the world around me?
We
are all travelers... Disembarking always the false finish for travel. Only after clearing immigration,
collecting luggage and seeing my daughter running towards me, am I home. Home isn’t the familiar night sky of
the northern hemisphere or a familiar skyline, as I had thought. It is where my wife and daughter become
as much of my environment as the soft humid Brisbane air that I understand that
my journey will always be completed by them and their words, “welcome home”.
Saturday, April 14, 2012
Structuring Serendipity
Structuring
Serendipity
The forced structure and organization of a
list: the whimsical gaseousness of pure chance. Is it possible to fuse such juxtaposed forces into a common
experience like Yin and Yang?
Could Lewis and Clark really travel with Cheech and Chong?
My
bucket list…
Like buying a lottery ticket, the power of
bucket lists is that of inspiring people to plan, to look forward and to share
with others. Sharing and
collaboration bring us closer to each other. Dreaming about experiences that not only enliven us but also
act as an extension of who we are and want to be.
Pleasure
in preparation….
Taking care to list experiences that would facilitate
an opportunity to live life to it’s fullest, but does the bucket list really
facilitate this goal? Unfortunately, bucket lists foreclose upon serendipity.
Bucket lists may provide structure to
travel planning, but what of the “non-bucket list” experiences? What of the delight in discovering a
small espresso bar in Melbourne famous only to locals? Finding an eclectic shop in San
Francisco? Seeking sanctuary from
a sudden rain to discover a new favorite cocktail in Soho? Enter serendipity. But where does this leave your bucket
list?
Serendipity
found…
I recently traveled to Tampa facing an
itinerary that included my father’s funeral and baseball Spring Training. On my bucket list? No, but why not? Shouldn’t the bucket also have capacity
for chance opportunities?
Doesn’t serendipity also enrich us like bucket
lists? While bucket lists are constructed
by personal experiences and imagination, serendipity is free from these constraints. Life took me to Tampa but serendipity enriched
my experiences.
Serendipity provided unanticipated additions
to my bucket of experiences: a baseball game with my mother; a Cuban themed
restaurant; and facilitating my father’s funeral service. My
revised bucket list? Embrace opportunities.
Thursday, March 22, 2012
San Francisco
SFO - I must say I'm envious of anyone that is lucky enough to have the opportunity to plan time in San Francisco. Notwithstanding here are my tips.
First off, read Dirty Job by Christopher Moore. It's a novel that follows an anti-hero through the realisation that he's the Grim Reaper. Turns out that he runs a curio shop in San Fran and his adventures point out some of the great or at least eclectic and interesting parts of this town. Love the book. It's non-stop silliness and gives you something to look for in town. Chris Moore. San Fran. Weirdness. It simply all works.
Get ready to walk. It's a great city to walk through. Probably for my wife and I especially since we ate and drank our body weights on a daily basis.
I'd spend a few days in the city as it's a great place to be central to shopping, dining and sights.
Dining:
Harry Denton's Starlight Room. This is old skewl. In fact it was old skewl when Frank Sinatra was around. But imagine that time, go ahead, close your eyes and think waiters in tuxedoes, waitresses in floor length gowns - but slit up to "here". Now find your way to the St Francis Hotel, just off Union Sq. and got to the top floor. Go before sunset as the view is awesome. Take a stroll around, have a $18 ($7AUD with the exchange) martini, watch the sunset, listen to some live music and then push on for a proper meal.
But where? Funny you should ask......
Empress of China. Since you've now fortified yourself with a drink walk into Chinatown (towards the pier - away from Union Sq.) Walk slowly and keep a keen out for the Empress. It's upstairs, and you take lifts to access it, but you'll seen signage up front. This is also dated, but great. It's got the obligatory wall of fame when all the famous people have their photos posted there. You'll be looking a long time to find mine, but you will see former President's and other head's of State. Once seated, you'll have the North American version of Chinese cuisine. The wait staff wear dated green tuxedos and are simply lovely. This is always a stop when my wife and I are in town. Usually for a late lunch.
The Posh Bagel. Great breakfast, if you like coffee and bagels. Word of warning, the coffee in NA isn't as good as it is in other parts of the world (we're currently being spoiled in Queensland, Australia), so be patient. However, you will do better at places like this than at Starbucks. The options for bagels range from dry or light cream cheese to a "breakfast bagel" which is the counterpart to the Queensland "fully loaded" hamburger; egg, bacon, avo, capsicum, onion, really anything that you can run a knife through.
Carnelian Room. The food is good, fine, not great but the view is mind blowing. We went for dinner, at sunset and the view eclipsed the food. I'd recommend brunch at sunrise, although this might be too early for your hours. Check and see, but the morning light should be good all the same.
Scomas'. This place looks like a dive but puts up a really good plate. Wander down to Fisherman's Wharf / the Pier areas, say a couple of hours before you want to eat. Go to the end of Jones St (past the massive bakery) (corner of Jefferson and Jones) and turn down the alley called Al Scoma Way. Step over the crazy homeless guy that's aways there, avoid the garbage and stacked crates and steel yourself to walking the next 400m. You'll open out at the end of Al Scoma Way in a collection of luxury vehicles and a modest restaurant that's lined up out the door. Since they don't take bookings, you'll leave your name and be asked to wait 90-120 minutes. Then you can walk back towards the pier, listen to the hollering of the sea lions, watch the seals and work up an appetite.
The Stinking Rose. Do you like garlic based cuisine? If yes make a reservation; if not then locate this place on your GPS and stay 2 blocks clear of it.
Bubbles Lounge. Champagne inspired wine bar. It's great. My wife and I spent two lovely nights there and the bartender was this erotic, lithe gal with a black dress and shoulder / sleeve tat that shook martinis like they owed her money. She was at once oddly hypnotic and terrifying. The best story that came from here, was from a friend that went with a bunch of her girlfriends, proceeded to get drunk enough to be uninhibited and obnoxious, left Bubbles and proceeded across the street into the Church of Scientology where they proceeded to play "Mock the Scientologist". Bummer to have missed that go.
Notable that I haven't tried:
Star bartenders Jonny Raglin (whose Wonderlust cocktail is pictured left) and Jeff Hollinger run this 1900s-style bar, where they serve period-appropriate cocktails and snacks like whiskey-cured gravlax on rye toast with dill sour cream.
First off, read Dirty Job by Christopher Moore. It's a novel that follows an anti-hero through the realisation that he's the Grim Reaper. Turns out that he runs a curio shop in San Fran and his adventures point out some of the great or at least eclectic and interesting parts of this town. Love the book. It's non-stop silliness and gives you something to look for in town. Chris Moore. San Fran. Weirdness. It simply all works.
Get ready to walk. It's a great city to walk through. Probably for my wife and I especially since we ate and drank our body weights on a daily basis.
I'd spend a few days in the city as it's a great place to be central to shopping, dining and sights.
Dining:
Harry Denton's Starlight Room. This is old skewl. In fact it was old skewl when Frank Sinatra was around. But imagine that time, go ahead, close your eyes and think waiters in tuxedoes, waitresses in floor length gowns - but slit up to "here". Now find your way to the St Francis Hotel, just off Union Sq. and got to the top floor. Go before sunset as the view is awesome. Take a stroll around, have a $18 ($7AUD with the exchange) martini, watch the sunset, listen to some live music and then push on for a proper meal.
But where? Funny you should ask......
Empress of China. Since you've now fortified yourself with a drink walk into Chinatown (towards the pier - away from Union Sq.) Walk slowly and keep a keen out for the Empress. It's upstairs, and you take lifts to access it, but you'll seen signage up front. This is also dated, but great. It's got the obligatory wall of fame when all the famous people have their photos posted there. You'll be looking a long time to find mine, but you will see former President's and other head's of State. Once seated, you'll have the North American version of Chinese cuisine. The wait staff wear dated green tuxedos and are simply lovely. This is always a stop when my wife and I are in town. Usually for a late lunch.
The Posh Bagel. Great breakfast, if you like coffee and bagels. Word of warning, the coffee in NA isn't as good as it is in other parts of the world (we're currently being spoiled in Queensland, Australia), so be patient. However, you will do better at places like this than at Starbucks. The options for bagels range from dry or light cream cheese to a "breakfast bagel" which is the counterpart to the Queensland "fully loaded" hamburger; egg, bacon, avo, capsicum, onion, really anything that you can run a knife through.
Carnelian Room. The food is good, fine, not great but the view is mind blowing. We went for dinner, at sunset and the view eclipsed the food. I'd recommend brunch at sunrise, although this might be too early for your hours. Check and see, but the morning light should be good all the same.
Scomas'. This place looks like a dive but puts up a really good plate. Wander down to Fisherman's Wharf / the Pier areas, say a couple of hours before you want to eat. Go to the end of Jones St (past the massive bakery) (corner of Jefferson and Jones) and turn down the alley called Al Scoma Way. Step over the crazy homeless guy that's aways there, avoid the garbage and stacked crates and steel yourself to walking the next 400m. You'll open out at the end of Al Scoma Way in a collection of luxury vehicles and a modest restaurant that's lined up out the door. Since they don't take bookings, you'll leave your name and be asked to wait 90-120 minutes. Then you can walk back towards the pier, listen to the hollering of the sea lions, watch the seals and work up an appetite.
The Stinking Rose. Do you like garlic based cuisine? If yes make a reservation; if not then locate this place on your GPS and stay 2 blocks clear of it.
Bubbles Lounge. Champagne inspired wine bar. It's great. My wife and I spent two lovely nights there and the bartender was this erotic, lithe gal with a black dress and shoulder / sleeve tat that shook martinis like they owed her money. She was at once oddly hypnotic and terrifying. The best story that came from here, was from a friend that went with a bunch of her girlfriends, proceeded to get drunk enough to be uninhibited and obnoxious, left Bubbles and proceeded across the street into the Church of Scientology where they proceeded to play "Mock the Scientologist". Bummer to have missed that go.
Notable that I haven't tried:
According to GQ The Alembic is one of the top 25 bars in America.
There's a kind of poetic humor to the drinks at this pubby cocktail bar on the Haight, where the minimum tattoo requirement for employees must be five, maybe six. The smoky and sweet Vasco da Gama, our favorite whiskey drink in the country, is served on the rocks with global ingredients: Buffalo Trace bourbon, masala-spiced apple syrup, Islay scotch. The Gilded Lily is a sparkling Chartreuse-and-gin cocktail topped with edible gold dust. It's perfect for Dubai, and perfectly ironic on a street where the homeless mumble Ginsberg's "Howl."
There's a kind of poetic humor to the drinks at this pubby cocktail bar on the Haight, where the minimum tattoo requirement for employees must be five, maybe six. The smoky and sweet Vasco da Gama, our favorite whiskey drink in the country, is served on the rocks with global ingredients: Buffalo Trace bourbon, masala-spiced apple syrup, Islay scotch. The Gilded Lily is a sparkling Chartreuse-and-gin cocktail topped with edible gold dust. It's perfect for Dubai, and perfectly ironic on a street where the homeless mumble Ginsberg's "Howl."
1725 Haight Street
415-666-0822
www.alembicbar.com
According to Delish the Comstock Saloon is one of the top 13 bars in America; 415-666-0822
www.alembicbar.com
Star bartenders Jonny Raglin (whose Wonderlust cocktail is pictured left) and Jeff Hollinger run this 1900s-style bar, where they serve period-appropriate cocktails and snacks like whiskey-cured gravlax on rye toast with dill sour cream.
155 Columbus Ave.; 415-617-0071;
Read More http://www.gq.com/food-travel/restaurants-and-bars/201010/25-best-cocktail-bars-in-america#ixzz1nMWpgIRk
The General Store. http://www.visitgeneralstore.com/visit.html
Attractions:
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMoMA).
The Big Pagoda. Modern Art / modern Asian home furnishings. Run by a couple of gay guys who are hysterical. The shop is interesting enough, the boys - a riot.
Vampire Tour. You think I'm joking, ordinarily I might be, but this time I'm serious. We've been rained out on this tour (and HAD to seek refuge back at Harry Denton's) but it provides a great history of the city, different view of things and a great way to walk off some of the food and booze that you'll consume.
Alcatraz Tour. There are a couple of forms that this takes. One is a tour of the Bay in which you land on The Rock and tour the facility. Sort of interesting from a historical point of view, a little eerie, but worth enough doing. There are also versions where you just head straight to and from the island or just tour around it without landing. If you like this sort of thing, then you should land and check it out. Probably takes a couple of hours and then that's good for the rest of your life.
Fisherman's Wharf. Gold Coast sort of tourist vibe. Ok. Fine. Whatever. Good enough to do while you're waiting for your table at Scoma's or if you want to duck in somewhere for a coffee. The Sourdough Bread Bakery does a decent job, but a little on the over-rated side.
Walking Tours. You can walk/tram/cable car everywhere and my wife and I loved doing so. Walk about and earn your dining experiences. Coit Tower, Lombard Street, China Town, Russian Hill (suburb) are all great and easy to get to from the CBD. Other places that are great are Golden Gate Bridge, Presidio, Battery Park and Golden Gate Park are further afield but also cool.
The Cliffs or the Cliff House comes up from the Basic Instinct movie and hosts magnificent views. Having said that this is on the far west side and along the Pacific Ocean, so sometimes the view is only limited by the curvature of the earth, whilst others it will be so foggy that you won't be able to see how many fingers you're holding up on your hand.
Take some warm clothes, especially a wind breaker, some fleece and something for a bit of rain. You're not in Queensland anymore Dorothy.
At that time of year, you'll have your choice of pro sports and the baseball team may be leading the league again. Not likely for either the Gridiron or basketball efforts. But like anything it will depend who's in town as to how interesting the game (which ever) may be.
Wine Areas
Heading north there are plenty of wine tours and sights to take in. There is outlet mall shopping through Premium Outlets, where the popular brands from previous seasons are being offered at deep discounts. You'll likely already find the prices better in NA than here, to the Outlets are better still. www.premiumoutlets.com/centers/index.asp -
Book early on the wine tours.
Do you have a preference for wine house or type? If you let me know, I'll make a couple of inquiries with people who've been, one who runs a wine bar in Canada and is connected, I'll hook you up if I can.
Other
If you head inland you'll find some real mountains, which are pretty cool. There is actually a decent range that separates the wine country proper from places like Sacramento. Alternatively, you can head up to the Mendocino National Forest which is what I'd consider a proper mountain wilderness.
http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c4/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gjAwhwtDDw9_AI8zPwhQoY6BdkOyoCAPkATlA!/?ss=110508&navtype=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&cid=FSE_003853&navid=091000000000000&pnavid=null&position=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&ttype=main&pname=Mendocino%20National%20Forest-%20Home
If you like military then Oakland has the naval depot
The famous Berkeley university is also on the other side of the bay and Stanford is south of SFO.
The General Store. http://www.visitgeneralstore.com/visit.html
Attractions:
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMoMA).
The Big Pagoda. Modern Art / modern Asian home furnishings. Run by a couple of gay guys who are hysterical. The shop is interesting enough, the boys - a riot.
Vampire Tour. You think I'm joking, ordinarily I might be, but this time I'm serious. We've been rained out on this tour (and HAD to seek refuge back at Harry Denton's) but it provides a great history of the city, different view of things and a great way to walk off some of the food and booze that you'll consume.
Alcatraz Tour. There are a couple of forms that this takes. One is a tour of the Bay in which you land on The Rock and tour the facility. Sort of interesting from a historical point of view, a little eerie, but worth enough doing. There are also versions where you just head straight to and from the island or just tour around it without landing. If you like this sort of thing, then you should land and check it out. Probably takes a couple of hours and then that's good for the rest of your life.
Fisherman's Wharf. Gold Coast sort of tourist vibe. Ok. Fine. Whatever. Good enough to do while you're waiting for your table at Scoma's or if you want to duck in somewhere for a coffee. The Sourdough Bread Bakery does a decent job, but a little on the over-rated side.
Walking Tours. You can walk/tram/cable car everywhere and my wife and I loved doing so. Walk about and earn your dining experiences. Coit Tower, Lombard Street, China Town, Russian Hill (suburb) are all great and easy to get to from the CBD. Other places that are great are Golden Gate Bridge, Presidio, Battery Park and Golden Gate Park are further afield but also cool.
The Cliffs or the Cliff House comes up from the Basic Instinct movie and hosts magnificent views. Having said that this is on the far west side and along the Pacific Ocean, so sometimes the view is only limited by the curvature of the earth, whilst others it will be so foggy that you won't be able to see how many fingers you're holding up on your hand.
Take some warm clothes, especially a wind breaker, some fleece and something for a bit of rain. You're not in Queensland anymore Dorothy.
At that time of year, you'll have your choice of pro sports and the baseball team may be leading the league again. Not likely for either the Gridiron or basketball efforts. But like anything it will depend who's in town as to how interesting the game (which ever) may be.
Wine Areas
Heading north there are plenty of wine tours and sights to take in. There is outlet mall shopping through Premium Outlets, where the popular brands from previous seasons are being offered at deep discounts. You'll likely already find the prices better in NA than here, to the Outlets are better still. www.premiumoutlets.com/
Book early on the wine tours.
Do you have a preference for wine house or type? If you let me know, I'll make a couple of inquiries with people who've been, one who runs a wine bar in Canada and is connected, I'll hook you up if I can.
Other
If you head inland you'll find some real mountains, which are pretty cool. There is actually a decent range that separates the wine country proper from places like Sacramento. Alternatively, you can head up to the Mendocino National Forest which is what I'd consider a proper mountain wilderness.
http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/
If you like military then Oakland has the naval depot
The famous Berkeley university is also on the other side of the bay and Stanford is south of SFO.
Thursday, March 1, 2012
Quebec City, Quebec Canada
Sigh.
I must say, there is a twinge of jealousy in providing you with suggestions for a potential visit to perhaps my favourite Canadian city to visit. There must be something magical about a city named after it's larger political territory. Quebec City, Quebec. New York City, New York. Classics. Haven't tried it out on Oklahoma City yet, but Carson City certainly lacks the same attraction that either New York or Quebec have for me.
The back story starts in my youth, where I travelled to Quebec chasing bike racing dreams. Because Quebec quite simply had the best racing in Canada, I was afforded a multitude of opportunities to travel throughout the Province. However given that Quebec is roughly 86% the size of Queensland, there was heaps of it I haven't seen and probably won't.
As fate would have it, I met some friends who hailed from a suburb of Quebec City (the locals just call it "Quebec", you should too so they know you know...) called Ste. Foy (pronounced saint foi) so while I have been in Montreal a few times, it was never the same experience as being in Quebec. Perhaps the difference was having local knowledge to guide me around, but perhaps Quebec is just more my speed.
Years after I quit racing, my wife and I spent an extra long weekend there. We flew into Montreal, because we had easy tickets and then rented a car and drove to Quebec. Very reminiscent of my cycling days, where I seemed to spend more time in a vehicle than I did on the bike. So the decision was made to drive on one side of the river on the way to Quebec and then return on the other and it provided to be a lovely drive of roughly 3 hours.
As for Quebec itself, we had a great time. Our days consisted of wandering lazily around looking at the various art shops and historic sites. As you probably know, Quebec was originally New France, settled by Napoleon and then conquered by the British. You will see the battlements, the wall surrounding the "Old City" and you can see the Plains of Abraham (www.ccbn-nbc.gc.ca/_en/index.
The battle was fought 13 September 1759, in seasonably foul weather. So if you can imagine the British soldiers struggling up the river banks in the rain, with their kit and artillery pieces, all the while with the noble French soldiers awaiting their arrival, so that they could all commence battle as civilised folks. Astonishing. More astonishing is that the conflict seems to have endured to this day manifesting itself in a odd tension between the two linguistic groups that plays out in forums ranging from ice hockey to National politics and has included acts of terrorism perpetuated by a separatist group known as the FLQ.
http://www.
We took a horse carriage ride through the area and had a lovely time. However, even by Canadian standards we found the chill uncomfortable and we needed to be fortified by wine, coffee and food. Copious quantities of each. This of course is where the trip really became great....
Cassee- Crepe Breton www.cassecrepebreton.com.
This is a cafe, and really a cafe run by kids that are shirking their responsibilities. If Peter Pan waited tables he'd work here, so lower your expectations. But having said that if you want good food, cheap and easy this is the place. We found it to be a great lunch reprieve from the cold damp air and also tided us over so that we could over indulge at dinner.
What do they serve? Great question. Crepes. Oh, yeah and coffee, what else do you need? I think that Winona Ryder and Ethan Hawke could have probably made it in Reality Bites if they had coffee and crepes to see them through their days. Certainly for my wife and I it seemed to be enough.
Ashton (Chez) www.chez-ashton.com
So if you call something “Chez” it makes it classy right? Wrong. We’re still not at the highbrow part of the list. Ashton is legendary all the same as Quebec fast food. They keep late hours and it is said that most of their business is done after the bars close (also typically late). This is where you get the poutine (hot chips, gravy and cheese curds). Soooo good. My wife and I actually dummied up some last weekend here. It’s not the same. You’ll see.
If you go to Quebec and don’t have poutine it would be the same as being in Australia without having a BBQ, Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower or Germany and not having a beer. You can do, but it just isn’t right.
Le Lapin Saute http://www.lapinsaute.com/
Great food, great ambiance. We over indulged and had a bottle of wine before we wend out for dinner so we would have had a great time anywhere. Having said that it was opulent and a close walk to where we were staying
Laurie Raphael http://www.laurieraphael.com/
Things would have changed significantly since we dined here, but it was lovely. Comfortable and well appointed. Also close to the river and the Naval Museum.
Pub Saint-Alexander http://www.pubstalexandre.com/
An English style pub that I have spent many a night at, as one of the guys I knew married into the biz. One evening a patron, who was later revealed as a separatist, attempted to pay his tab with fake cash. It was my buddy that caught him in the act. So here is a guy that bike raced for the Canadian National team, who’s over 6 feet tall and working hard to impress his wife’s family in their bar. He looks at the currency and immediately notices there is a problem. The colour looks good. The size of the bill, feel of the paper and font all seem right, but what is noticed, is that instead of saying “Canada” on the bill it says “Republic of Quebec” and has a picture of a frog on one side and the famous separatist Premier, Rene Levesque on the other. The response was, “I can’t accept part payment of Canadian currency mixed with that of Quebec, I need the full bill paid with “Frog Notes””. Classic. I’ve always loved that the man on the street in Quebec could laugh about the history. In Montreal there is a real linguistic tension that you see at every retail transaction, it gets so tiring.
Lots of fun times at the pub.
Walking
This is a great city to walk through.
Along Rue Saint Paul there are a number of local art galleries that you can wander through. This area is between the river (the St. Lawrence Seaway, which allows marine vessels to travel past Toronto into the Great Lakes) and the wall protecting the Old City.
There is a “Funiculaire” which is really a hybrid between an escalator and a glass lift, that takes you between the Old City and the river.
Rue du Marche-Champlain has loads of shops but will feel like a French speaking Gold Coast. Spin through it long enough to say “right” and then leave.
There are loads of Forts, there is the Citadel (Citadelle de Quebec), the fortifications and a walk through the classic Hotel Frontenac, which maybe not the place to stay for you guys, is good bit of Canadian history and worth checking out.
If you look between the Hotel Frontenac and the Seminaire (or there abouts) there is a little laneway that sets up little sales booths with an assortment of wares and crafts.
Quebec is also well known in Canada for it’s artisanal cheeses, so if you get a chance you should give some of the local stock a try.
The hotel we stayed at was the Hotel Dominion 1912
http://www.germaindominion.
Take warm clothes. Fleece and layers, and probably something to cut the wind are recommended as are warm footwear.
If you're looking for local / Canadian sport, the University of Laval may have a hockey game running. If you can skate there is typically outdoor ice across from Crepe Breton to try out.
Bon chance (good luck) and bon voyage (good trip).
I must say, there is a twinge of jealousy in providing you with suggestions for a potential visit to perhaps my favourite Canadian city to visit. There must be something magical about a city named after it's larger political territory. Quebec City, Quebec. New York City, New York. Classics. Haven't tried it out on Oklahoma City yet, but Carson City certainly lacks the same attraction that either New York or Quebec have for me.
The back story starts in my youth, where I travelled to Quebec chasing bike racing dreams. Because Quebec quite simply had the best racing in Canada, I was afforded a multitude of opportunities to travel throughout the Province. However given that Quebec is roughly 86% the size of Queensland, there was heaps of it I haven't seen and probably won't.
As fate would have it, I met some friends who hailed from a suburb of Quebec City (the locals just call it "Quebec", you should too so they know you know...) called Ste. Foy (pronounced saint foi) so while I have been in Montreal a few times, it was never the same experience as being in Quebec. Perhaps the difference was having local knowledge to guide me around, but perhaps Quebec is just more my speed.
Years after I quit racing, my wife and I spent an extra long weekend there. We flew into Montreal, because we had easy tickets and then rented a car and drove to Quebec. Very reminiscent of my cycling days, where I seemed to spend more time in a vehicle than I did on the bike. So the decision was made to drive on one side of the river on the way to Quebec and then return on the other and it provided to be a lovely drive of roughly 3 hours.
As for Quebec itself, we had a great time. Our days consisted of wandering lazily around looking at the various art shops and historic sites. As you probably know, Quebec was originally New France, settled by Napoleon and then conquered by the British. You will see the battlements, the wall surrounding the "Old City" and you can see the Plains of Abraham (www.ccbn-nbc.gc.ca/_en/index.
The battle was fought 13 September 1759, in seasonably foul weather. So if you can imagine the British soldiers struggling up the river banks in the rain, with their kit and artillery pieces, all the while with the noble French soldiers awaiting their arrival, so that they could all commence battle as civilised folks. Astonishing. More astonishing is that the conflict seems to have endured to this day manifesting itself in a odd tension between the two linguistic groups that plays out in forums ranging from ice hockey to National politics and has included acts of terrorism perpetuated by a separatist group known as the FLQ.
http://www.
We took a horse carriage ride through the area and had a lovely time. However, even by Canadian standards we found the chill uncomfortable and we needed to be fortified by wine, coffee and food. Copious quantities of each. This of course is where the trip really became great....
Cassee- Crepe Breton www.cassecrepebreton.com.
This is a cafe, and really a cafe run by kids that are shirking their responsibilities. If Peter Pan waited tables he'd work here, so lower your expectations. But having said that if you want good food, cheap and easy this is the place. We found it to be a great lunch reprieve from the cold damp air and also tided us over so that we could over indulge at dinner.
What do they serve? Great question. Crepes. Oh, yeah and coffee, what else do you need? I think that Winona Ryder and Ethan Hawke could have probably made it in Reality Bites if they had coffee and crepes to see them through their days. Certainly for my wife and I it seemed to be enough.
Ashton (Chez) www.chez-ashton.com
So if you call something “Chez” it makes it classy right? Wrong. We’re still not at the highbrow part of the list. Ashton is legendary all the same as Quebec fast food. They keep late hours and it is said that most of their business is done after the bars close (also typically late). This is where you get the poutine (hot chips, gravy and cheese curds). Soooo good. My wife and I actually dummied up some last weekend here. It’s not the same. You’ll see.
If you go to Quebec and don’t have poutine it would be the same as being in Australia without having a BBQ, Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower or Germany and not having a beer. You can do, but it just isn’t right.
Le Lapin Saute http://www.lapinsaute.com/
Great food, great ambiance. We over indulged and had a bottle of wine before we wend out for dinner so we would have had a great time anywhere. Having said that it was opulent and a close walk to where we were staying
Laurie Raphael http://www.laurieraphael.com/
Things would have changed significantly since we dined here, but it was lovely. Comfortable and well appointed. Also close to the river and the Naval Museum.
Pub Saint-Alexander http://www.pubstalexandre.com/
An English style pub that I have spent many a night at, as one of the guys I knew married into the biz. One evening a patron, who was later revealed as a separatist, attempted to pay his tab with fake cash. It was my buddy that caught him in the act. So here is a guy that bike raced for the Canadian National team, who’s over 6 feet tall and working hard to impress his wife’s family in their bar. He looks at the currency and immediately notices there is a problem. The colour looks good. The size of the bill, feel of the paper and font all seem right, but what is noticed, is that instead of saying “Canada” on the bill it says “Republic of Quebec” and has a picture of a frog on one side and the famous separatist Premier, Rene Levesque on the other. The response was, “I can’t accept part payment of Canadian currency mixed with that of Quebec, I need the full bill paid with “Frog Notes””. Classic. I’ve always loved that the man on the street in Quebec could laugh about the history. In Montreal there is a real linguistic tension that you see at every retail transaction, it gets so tiring.
Lots of fun times at the pub.
Walking
This is a great city to walk through.
Along Rue Saint Paul there are a number of local art galleries that you can wander through. This area is between the river (the St. Lawrence Seaway, which allows marine vessels to travel past Toronto into the Great Lakes) and the wall protecting the Old City.
There is a “Funiculaire” which is really a hybrid between an escalator and a glass lift, that takes you between the Old City and the river.
Rue du Marche-Champlain has loads of shops but will feel like a French speaking Gold Coast. Spin through it long enough to say “right” and then leave.
There are loads of Forts, there is the Citadel (Citadelle de Quebec), the fortifications and a walk through the classic Hotel Frontenac, which maybe not the place to stay for you guys, is good bit of Canadian history and worth checking out.
If you look between the Hotel Frontenac and the Seminaire (or there abouts) there is a little laneway that sets up little sales booths with an assortment of wares and crafts.
Quebec is also well known in Canada for it’s artisanal cheeses, so if you get a chance you should give some of the local stock a try.
The hotel we stayed at was the Hotel Dominion 1912
http://www.germaindominion.
Take warm clothes. Fleece and layers, and probably something to cut the wind are recommended as are warm footwear.
If you're looking for local / Canadian sport, the University of Laval may have a hockey game running. If you can skate there is typically outdoor ice across from Crepe Breton to try out.
Bon chance (good luck) and bon voyage (good trip).
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Banff / Lake Louise / Canmore / Calgary
Banff / Lake Louise / Canmore / Calgary
All within about an hour of each other and all offering something a little different.
Banff - Calgary ~70 min. (given good driving conditions)
Banff - Canmore ~20 min. (given good driving conditions)
Banff - Lake Louise ~40 min. (given good driving conditions)
Driving conditions should be good during May, but there is still a chance of snow fall at higher elevations.
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General Cautions for the area:
Winter driving conditions can be tough. Not only does the snow make things slick, but if the wind comes up the snow will drift and may obscure hazards. Probably the worst hazard is black ice, which is ice that has been polished by the repeating passing of other vehicles. Black ice can seemingly come out of nowhere like a lightening strike.
Animals - they look fun and friendly. They're not. Consider them as dangerous and unpredictable as drunken English Football fans travelling abroad for a match. They might be ok, but then you may just get trampled.
Ice - if you're going to venture out on ice, ask someone (preferably someone who's both lucid and knowledgeable) about the conditions, the depths and known hazards. Don't rely upon the current weather conditions. We were at Lake Louise in 2009 and it was (and had been) -25 but there was still open water on parts of the lake. On other parts, horse teams were pulling sleighs. You may be a good swimmer and a tough guy, but you're no match for getting trapped under the ice.
Banff is a training town / posting station for the new RCMP graduates (Royal Canadian Mounted Police). Like the animals, they look fun and friendly in their red serge when dressed for formal occasions. However, when on duty, they are focused? Commited? Zealous? Unreasonable? Why don't we just say ultra vigilant. Given that Banff is also known for stray animals and drunk / stoned people (a fine line between the two really) you can hardly blame the police for taking the role seriously. However, don't expect a lot of latitude.
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Banff - tourist town. Great place to see Europeans, Japanese and Elk. Think Gold Coast with snow.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
General Cautions for the area:
Animals - they look fun and friendly. They're not. Consider them as dangerous and unpredictable as drunken English Football fans travelling abroad for a match. They might be ok, but then you may just get trampled.
Ice - if you're going to venture out on ice, ask someone (preferably someone who's both lucid and knowledgeable) about the conditions, the depths and known hazards. Don't rely upon the current weather conditions. We were at Lake Louise in 2009 and it was (and had been) -25 but there was still open water on parts of the lake. On other parts, horse teams were pulling sleighs. You may be a good swimmer and a tough guy, but you're no match for getting trapped under the ice.
Banff is a training town / posting station for the new RCMP graduates (Royal Canadian Mounted Police). Like the animals, they look fun and friendly in their red serge when dressed for formal occasions. However, when on duty, they are focused? Commited? Zealous? Unreasonable? Why don't we just say ultra vigilant. Given that Banff is also known for stray animals and drunk / stoned people (a fine line between the two really) you can hardly blame the police for taking the role seriously. However, don't expect a lot of latitude.
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Banff - tourist town. Great place to see Europeans, Japanese and Elk. Think Gold Coast with snow.
Activities:
hiking;
photography;
There are a variety of good trails that provide easy access for snowshoing and cross country skiing in the winter and hiking or walking in other months. If you were there in the winter, I'd recommend that you rent snowshoes and head up Goat Creek Trail, but it's just as nice a walk in Spring. The trail is wide, so it's easy, and if you're feeling more adventurous, you can go further or venture off of the trail. The trail to the Cave and Basin, is also a good one but is a little further, but goes along the Bow River rather than into the mountains.
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Lake Louise - resort attracting a wide scope of visitors with varying interests and inclinations. You'll love it. It's inspired by the Swiss (almost all of the guides that developed, mapped and discovered the National Park were Swiss) and staffed by the Aussies (It is likely that there are more Aussies between 19-25 in Lake Louise than in Sydney).
hiking;
photography;
skiing (alpine,back-country and cross country);
dog sleighs;
snow shoeing;
ice fishing;
shopping;
ice skating;
horse sleighs;
kickin' it on the frozen lake among the ice fort and drinking hot chocolate;
eating; and
drinking.
There really isn't any reason to dine anywhere other than the Chateau or the Post Hotel. Both places are great and you'll find rustic mountain / game inspired cuisine. The Chateau also boasts a fondue restaurant similar to the Banff Springs, but I think I've amply covered my views on fondue. In the event that I'm not clear, I'd check out a place in Banff called the Grizzly House. It's not as fancy as either the Banff Springs or the Chateau, but if you're drinking and likely having hot oils splattering, fancy isn't really invited.
If you're going to be up to Lake Louise, and you should at least one day, you'll want to be outside. The mountain and hanging glacier are breath taking. If it's a good cold day you'll be treated to a lovely bright sky.
Winter options that are close to the Chateau Lake Louise include ice skating on the lake, snowshoeing (although more challenging than Banff), horse drawn sleigh rides and dog sleighing. Also nearby there is world class alpine skiing at the resort, which has hosted many World Cup Downhill races. dog sleighs;
snow shoeing;
ice fishing;
shopping;
ice skating;
horse sleighs;
kickin' it on the frozen lake among the ice fort and drinking hot chocolate;
eating; and
drinking.
There really isn't any reason to dine anywhere other than the Chateau or the Post Hotel. Both places are great and you'll find rustic mountain / game inspired cuisine. The Chateau also boasts a fondue restaurant similar to the Banff Springs, but I think I've amply covered my views on fondue. In the event that I'm not clear, I'd check out a place in Banff called the Grizzly House. It's not as fancy as either the Banff Springs or the Chateau, but if you're drinking and likely having hot oils splattering, fancy isn't really invited.
If you're going to be up to Lake Louise, and you should at least one day, you'll want to be outside. The mountain and hanging glacier are breath taking. If it's a good cold day you'll be treated to a lovely bright sky.
The great part of doing things outside at the Chateau is that you're only a few steps away from warm fires and food indoors. This may appeal to anyone that likes being warm, eating food and drinking.
There is also a little village that hosts some shopping, but this is the Rocky Mountain equivalent to the Aussie Souvenir shops that you find on the Gold Coast, Queen Street Mall or in the other big malls. The upside is that you can get premium maple syrup from these places. Alternatively, if you're in search of syrup you can go to any grocery store and pay about 1/3 of the price for a better product.
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Canmore - bedroom community for Calgary and home of outdoors inspired people. I love Canmore because regardless of the season, the weather, or the time of day you’ll see people outdoors engaged in some form of activity, and just as often as not, with children. I wish that every town had this attitude.
Activities:
There is also a little village that hosts some shopping, but this is the Rocky Mountain equivalent to the Aussie Souvenir shops that you find on the Gold Coast, Queen Street Mall or in the other big malls. The upside is that you can get premium maple syrup from these places. Alternatively, if you're in search of syrup you can go to any grocery store and pay about 1/3 of the price for a better product.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Canmore - bedroom community for Calgary and home of outdoors inspired people. I love Canmore because regardless of the season, the weather, or the time of day you’ll see people outdoors engaged in some form of activity, and just as often as not, with children. I wish that every town had this attitude.
hiking;
photography;
skiing (back-country and cross country);
dog sleighs;
snow shoeing;
ice fishing;
shopping;
ice skating;
eating; and
drinking.
Visit the Nordic Centre, home to the cross-country skiing events of the 1988 Olympic Winter Games.
Dinning:
Coffee Mine - coffee; baked goods; and lunch. Organic and vegetarian options on the menu.
Quarry - breakfast and lunch. Mid range. Quality food.
Murrietta’s – lunch and dinner. Again, mid range with quality food. You’ll enjoy the extensive wine list and note that they have a restaurant in Calgary.
Crazy Weed – partially owned by a former employer of mine, continues to deliver knockout punches with critics. I’ve never eaten there as I could never get a table and the reservations are taken up as soon as they’re available. The cuisine is game / mountain inspired, so certainly worth giving a look to.
Shopping:
You'll find local artists, outdoor gear and clothing, rather than the higher end boutiques of either Banff or Calgary. There is some quality art shops there, but generally Nicole and I have enjoyed wandering the main street and popping in and out of the shops.
Other Activities:
Snow pack close to the townsite is sometimes questionable, so if you want to try ice skating on the beaver pond, snowshoeing (although more challenging than Banff) or dog sleighing, you'll have to venture out of town a bit. However, this maybe an option if you can't find a reservation in either Banff or Lake Louise.
Sometimes you'll find more options available for excursions or activities in Canmore because it is less regulated than Banff and Lake Louise due to being located outside the National Park. So, if there is something that you can't set-up in the Park, you may have more luck in Canmore. If you're really adventurous there is a trail that you can cross-country ski (or snowshoe) between Banff and Canmore. I've run along it and mountain biked it in the summer. It's about 12 km, if memory serves, but it's along the river and lovely. You may even see wild deer or elk if you venture out.
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Calgary:
Activities:dog sleighs;
snow shoeing;
ice fishing;
shopping;
ice skating;
eating; and
drinking.
Visit the Nordic Centre, home to the cross-country skiing events of the 1988 Olympic Winter Games.
Dinning:
Coffee Mine - coffee; baked goods; and lunch. Organic and vegetarian options on the menu.
Quarry - breakfast and lunch. Mid range. Quality food.
Murrietta’s – lunch and dinner. Again, mid range with quality food. You’ll enjoy the extensive wine list and note that they have a restaurant in Calgary.
Crazy Weed – partially owned by a former employer of mine, continues to deliver knockout punches with critics. I’ve never eaten there as I could never get a table and the reservations are taken up as soon as they’re available. The cuisine is game / mountain inspired, so certainly worth giving a look to.
Shopping:
You'll find local artists, outdoor gear and clothing, rather than the higher end boutiques of either Banff or Calgary. There is some quality art shops there, but generally Nicole and I have enjoyed wandering the main street and popping in and out of the shops.
Other Activities:
Snow pack close to the townsite is sometimes questionable, so if you want to try ice skating on the beaver pond, snowshoeing (although more challenging than Banff) or dog sleighing, you'll have to venture out of town a bit. However, this maybe an option if you can't find a reservation in either Banff or Lake Louise.
Sometimes you'll find more options available for excursions or activities in Canmore because it is less regulated than Banff and Lake Louise due to being located outside the National Park. So, if there is something that you can't set-up in the Park, you may have more luck in Canmore. If you're really adventurous there is a trail that you can cross-country ski (or snowshoe) between Banff and Canmore. I've run along it and mountain biked it in the summer. It's about 12 km, if memory serves, but it's along the river and lovely. You may even see wild deer or elk if you venture out.
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Calgary:
anything a major city has to offer; and
shopping;
ice skating;
eating; and
drinking.
Canada Olympic Park - http://www.winsportcanada.ca/
Notable things to try:
ski jump simulator;
bobsligh ride; and
snow board half pipe (if you ride).
Shopping in Calgary is becoming better and you'll find the high end things that your bonus will hate and your wife will love. Start with Holt Renfrew downtown, it's really an upscale David Jones or Bloomingdales.
Dining:
Italian
Villa Firenze - 610 1st Ave SE
reservations 403.264.4297
Whilst dining ask for Pina, the owner and tell her how you had heard about her restaurant. Then order the candied peppers and the portabello mushroom. These are "off menu" items that you need to be in the know that order. My wife and I are missing our meals there.
Steak options:
Caesar's - 512 4th Ave SW
reservations 403.264.1222
Birthplace of the cocktail bearing the same name. The decor is dated, but then so is the idea of eating a huge piece of meat as a meal. However, sometimes old skewl is the best skewl. Certainly the case here. The recommendation? Start with a Caesar, order up a steak and think about vegetables tomorrow. Only seems right that you have a glass of port to finish.
Trib - 118 8th Ave SW
reservations 403.269.3160
Trendier than Caesar's and also excellent. A shared Beef Wellington and copious amounts of wine as a means of filling up a long evening is a sure fire winner.
General dining and accommodation
Fairmont Palliser Hotel - You could have stopped reading a Fairmont, however, the hotel is one of Calgary's oldest buildings, nearly 50 years old!! Ok, probably 125 years, but still by any other standard it might as well be 25 years old. Nice classic Fairmont hotel and good dining. Massive breakfast buffet that eclipses the imagination of most people.
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