Banff / Lake Louise / Canmore / Calgary
All within about an hour of each other and all offering something a little different.
Banff - Calgary ~70 min. (given good driving conditions)
Banff - Canmore ~20 min. (given good driving conditions)
Banff - Lake Louise ~40 min. (given good driving conditions)
Driving conditions should be good during May, but there is still a chance of snow fall at higher elevations.
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General Cautions for the area:
Winter driving conditions can be tough. Not only does the snow make things slick, but if the wind comes up the snow will drift and may obscure hazards. Probably the worst hazard is black ice, which is ice that has been polished by the repeating passing of other vehicles. Black ice can seemingly come out of nowhere like a lightening strike.
Animals - they look fun and friendly. They're not. Consider them as dangerous and unpredictable as drunken English Football fans travelling abroad for a match. They might be ok, but then you may just get trampled.
Ice - if you're going to venture out on ice, ask someone (preferably someone who's both lucid and knowledgeable) about the conditions, the depths and known hazards. Don't rely upon the current weather conditions. We were at Lake Louise in 2009 and it was (and had been) -25 but there was still open water on parts of the lake. On other parts, horse teams were pulling sleighs. You may be a good swimmer and a tough guy, but you're no match for getting trapped under the ice.
Banff is a training town / posting station for the new RCMP graduates (Royal Canadian Mounted Police). Like the animals, they look fun and friendly in their red serge when dressed for formal occasions. However, when on duty, they are focused? Commited? Zealous? Unreasonable? Why don't we just say ultra vigilant. Given that Banff is also known for stray animals and drunk / stoned people (a fine line between the two really) you can hardly blame the police for taking the role seriously. However, don't expect a lot of latitude.
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Banff - tourist town. Great place to see Europeans, Japanese and Elk. Think Gold Coast with snow.
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General Cautions for the area:
Animals - they look fun and friendly. They're not. Consider them as dangerous and unpredictable as drunken English Football fans travelling abroad for a match. They might be ok, but then you may just get trampled.
Ice - if you're going to venture out on ice, ask someone (preferably someone who's both lucid and knowledgeable) about the conditions, the depths and known hazards. Don't rely upon the current weather conditions. We were at Lake Louise in 2009 and it was (and had been) -25 but there was still open water on parts of the lake. On other parts, horse teams were pulling sleighs. You may be a good swimmer and a tough guy, but you're no match for getting trapped under the ice.
Banff is a training town / posting station for the new RCMP graduates (Royal Canadian Mounted Police). Like the animals, they look fun and friendly in their red serge when dressed for formal occasions. However, when on duty, they are focused? Commited? Zealous? Unreasonable? Why don't we just say ultra vigilant. Given that Banff is also known for stray animals and drunk / stoned people (a fine line between the two really) you can hardly blame the police for taking the role seriously. However, don't expect a lot of latitude.
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Banff - tourist town. Great place to see Europeans, Japanese and Elk. Think Gold Coast with snow.
Activities:
hiking;
photography;
There are a variety of good trails that provide easy access for snowshoing and cross country skiing in the winter and hiking or walking in other months. If you were there in the winter, I'd recommend that you rent snowshoes and head up Goat Creek Trail, but it's just as nice a walk in Spring. The trail is wide, so it's easy, and if you're feeling more adventurous, you can go further or venture off of the trail. The trail to the Cave and Basin, is also a good one but is a little further, but goes along the Bow River rather than into the mountains.
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Lake Louise - resort attracting a wide scope of visitors with varying interests and inclinations. You'll love it. It's inspired by the Swiss (almost all of the guides that developed, mapped and discovered the National Park were Swiss) and staffed by the Aussies (It is likely that there are more Aussies between 19-25 in Lake Louise than in Sydney).
hiking;
photography;
skiing (alpine,back-country and cross country);
dog sleighs;
snow shoeing;
ice fishing;
shopping;
ice skating;
horse sleighs;
kickin' it on the frozen lake among the ice fort and drinking hot chocolate;
eating; and
drinking.
There really isn't any reason to dine anywhere other than the Chateau or the Post Hotel. Both places are great and you'll find rustic mountain / game inspired cuisine. The Chateau also boasts a fondue restaurant similar to the Banff Springs, but I think I've amply covered my views on fondue. In the event that I'm not clear, I'd check out a place in Banff called the Grizzly House. It's not as fancy as either the Banff Springs or the Chateau, but if you're drinking and likely having hot oils splattering, fancy isn't really invited.
If you're going to be up to Lake Louise, and you should at least one day, you'll want to be outside. The mountain and hanging glacier are breath taking. If it's a good cold day you'll be treated to a lovely bright sky.
Winter options that are close to the Chateau Lake Louise include ice skating on the lake, snowshoeing (although more challenging than Banff), horse drawn sleigh rides and dog sleighing. Also nearby there is world class alpine skiing at the resort, which has hosted many World Cup Downhill races. dog sleighs;
snow shoeing;
ice fishing;
shopping;
ice skating;
horse sleighs;
kickin' it on the frozen lake among the ice fort and drinking hot chocolate;
eating; and
drinking.
There really isn't any reason to dine anywhere other than the Chateau or the Post Hotel. Both places are great and you'll find rustic mountain / game inspired cuisine. The Chateau also boasts a fondue restaurant similar to the Banff Springs, but I think I've amply covered my views on fondue. In the event that I'm not clear, I'd check out a place in Banff called the Grizzly House. It's not as fancy as either the Banff Springs or the Chateau, but if you're drinking and likely having hot oils splattering, fancy isn't really invited.
If you're going to be up to Lake Louise, and you should at least one day, you'll want to be outside. The mountain and hanging glacier are breath taking. If it's a good cold day you'll be treated to a lovely bright sky.
The great part of doing things outside at the Chateau is that you're only a few steps away from warm fires and food indoors. This may appeal to anyone that likes being warm, eating food and drinking.
There is also a little village that hosts some shopping, but this is the Rocky Mountain equivalent to the Aussie Souvenir shops that you find on the Gold Coast, Queen Street Mall or in the other big malls. The upside is that you can get premium maple syrup from these places. Alternatively, if you're in search of syrup you can go to any grocery store and pay about 1/3 of the price for a better product.
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Canmore - bedroom community for Calgary and home of outdoors inspired people. I love Canmore because regardless of the season, the weather, or the time of day you’ll see people outdoors engaged in some form of activity, and just as often as not, with children. I wish that every town had this attitude.
Activities:
There is also a little village that hosts some shopping, but this is the Rocky Mountain equivalent to the Aussie Souvenir shops that you find on the Gold Coast, Queen Street Mall or in the other big malls. The upside is that you can get premium maple syrup from these places. Alternatively, if you're in search of syrup you can go to any grocery store and pay about 1/3 of the price for a better product.
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Canmore - bedroom community for Calgary and home of outdoors inspired people. I love Canmore because regardless of the season, the weather, or the time of day you’ll see people outdoors engaged in some form of activity, and just as often as not, with children. I wish that every town had this attitude.
hiking;
photography;
skiing (back-country and cross country);
dog sleighs;
snow shoeing;
ice fishing;
shopping;
ice skating;
eating; and
drinking.
Visit the Nordic Centre, home to the cross-country skiing events of the 1988 Olympic Winter Games.
Dinning:
Coffee Mine - coffee; baked goods; and lunch. Organic and vegetarian options on the menu.
Quarry - breakfast and lunch. Mid range. Quality food.
Murrietta’s – lunch and dinner. Again, mid range with quality food. You’ll enjoy the extensive wine list and note that they have a restaurant in Calgary.
Crazy Weed – partially owned by a former employer of mine, continues to deliver knockout punches with critics. I’ve never eaten there as I could never get a table and the reservations are taken up as soon as they’re available. The cuisine is game / mountain inspired, so certainly worth giving a look to.
Shopping:
You'll find local artists, outdoor gear and clothing, rather than the higher end boutiques of either Banff or Calgary. There is some quality art shops there, but generally Nicole and I have enjoyed wandering the main street and popping in and out of the shops.
Other Activities:
Snow pack close to the townsite is sometimes questionable, so if you want to try ice skating on the beaver pond, snowshoeing (although more challenging than Banff) or dog sleighing, you'll have to venture out of town a bit. However, this maybe an option if you can't find a reservation in either Banff or Lake Louise.
Sometimes you'll find more options available for excursions or activities in Canmore because it is less regulated than Banff and Lake Louise due to being located outside the National Park. So, if there is something that you can't set-up in the Park, you may have more luck in Canmore. If you're really adventurous there is a trail that you can cross-country ski (or snowshoe) between Banff and Canmore. I've run along it and mountain biked it in the summer. It's about 12 km, if memory serves, but it's along the river and lovely. You may even see wild deer or elk if you venture out.
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Calgary:
Activities:dog sleighs;
snow shoeing;
ice fishing;
shopping;
ice skating;
eating; and
drinking.
Visit the Nordic Centre, home to the cross-country skiing events of the 1988 Olympic Winter Games.
Dinning:
Coffee Mine - coffee; baked goods; and lunch. Organic and vegetarian options on the menu.
Quarry - breakfast and lunch. Mid range. Quality food.
Murrietta’s – lunch and dinner. Again, mid range with quality food. You’ll enjoy the extensive wine list and note that they have a restaurant in Calgary.
Crazy Weed – partially owned by a former employer of mine, continues to deliver knockout punches with critics. I’ve never eaten there as I could never get a table and the reservations are taken up as soon as they’re available. The cuisine is game / mountain inspired, so certainly worth giving a look to.
Shopping:
You'll find local artists, outdoor gear and clothing, rather than the higher end boutiques of either Banff or Calgary. There is some quality art shops there, but generally Nicole and I have enjoyed wandering the main street and popping in and out of the shops.
Other Activities:
Snow pack close to the townsite is sometimes questionable, so if you want to try ice skating on the beaver pond, snowshoeing (although more challenging than Banff) or dog sleighing, you'll have to venture out of town a bit. However, this maybe an option if you can't find a reservation in either Banff or Lake Louise.
Sometimes you'll find more options available for excursions or activities in Canmore because it is less regulated than Banff and Lake Louise due to being located outside the National Park. So, if there is something that you can't set-up in the Park, you may have more luck in Canmore. If you're really adventurous there is a trail that you can cross-country ski (or snowshoe) between Banff and Canmore. I've run along it and mountain biked it in the summer. It's about 12 km, if memory serves, but it's along the river and lovely. You may even see wild deer or elk if you venture out.
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Calgary:
anything a major city has to offer; and
shopping;
ice skating;
eating; and
drinking.
Canada Olympic Park - http://www.winsportcanada.ca/
Notable things to try:
ski jump simulator;
bobsligh ride; and
snow board half pipe (if you ride).
Shopping in Calgary is becoming better and you'll find the high end things that your bonus will hate and your wife will love. Start with Holt Renfrew downtown, it's really an upscale David Jones or Bloomingdales.
Dining:
Italian
Villa Firenze - 610 1st Ave SE
reservations 403.264.4297
Whilst dining ask for Pina, the owner and tell her how you had heard about her restaurant. Then order the candied peppers and the portabello mushroom. These are "off menu" items that you need to be in the know that order. My wife and I are missing our meals there.
Steak options:
Caesar's - 512 4th Ave SW
reservations 403.264.1222
Birthplace of the cocktail bearing the same name. The decor is dated, but then so is the idea of eating a huge piece of meat as a meal. However, sometimes old skewl is the best skewl. Certainly the case here. The recommendation? Start with a Caesar, order up a steak and think about vegetables tomorrow. Only seems right that you have a glass of port to finish.
Trib - 118 8th Ave SW
reservations 403.269.3160
Trendier than Caesar's and also excellent. A shared Beef Wellington and copious amounts of wine as a means of filling up a long evening is a sure fire winner.
General dining and accommodation
Fairmont Palliser Hotel - You could have stopped reading a Fairmont, however, the hotel is one of Calgary's oldest buildings, nearly 50 years old!! Ok, probably 125 years, but still by any other standard it might as well be 25 years old. Nice classic Fairmont hotel and good dining. Massive breakfast buffet that eclipses the imagination of most people.
